A Ride Through History
Croatia Bike Tour Day 9 (Sat 23 May 2015)
A “rest” day in Split
Photos:
View photos of Solin’s Roman Ruins: the Amphitheatre and the Episcopal Centre
View photos of Diocletian’s Palace
View urban photos of Split
Today I awoke early and with the sun breaking through I was determined to see all that historic Split has to offer. I was “split” between heading for Diocletian’s Palace or doing a 20 Km round bike trip to see the Roman ruins of Solin (Salona) . But I needed the exercise (and it was a fine day) so I decided on the latter. I was not disappointed, it was truly remarkable to see the stonework still in such good condition after nearly 2,000 years. What was even more amazing is that it is not well publicised, no signposts pointing the way, no public transport carrying hordes of tourists … I was only able to find it because I had uploaded the GPX file to my Garmin navigator before I left Australia (I had happened to read about Solin somewhere). So here I was standing in the middle of the amphitheatre by myself (alone with all the other old ruins) imagining I was a lone gladiator about to do battle with the rampaging bears.
Did I say it was fine? Not for long I am afraid, I got drenched again on the way back to Split. But with a little help from a hairdryer I got changed into some dry clothes and headed for the “palace”, my spirits un-dampened.
Everything that is written about Diocletian’s Palace is true. You can’t help but love the place. You’re walking on 2,000 year old stones, while enjoying modern boutique stores and incredible caffe bars and restaurants. Every alleyway offers another hidden treasure. Wander aimlessly, get lost and enjoy it, you’ll eventually come to a point where you will know where you are. With its maze of narrow alleyways there are delightful surprises round each corner … shops, bars, restaurants in abundance.
I am going back there tomorrow for sure. As much as I tried to systematically cover the whole area, there are still many more unexplored streets and alleys with delights awaiting me. For instance I am yet to find the underground tunnels, which are apparently really well preserved, and I am told the view from the bell tower is superb. One lone busker kept me entertained for some time today, as did a beautiful folk singer with a voice as soft and melodic as an angel (or Joan Baez), surrounded by a swooning, captivated audience. But I am yet to experience the beautiful harmony of live Klapa singers. Maybe they are nocturnal creatures, so I might go back after dark and listen for their harmonious voices ringing out in the night air.
The day ended with a fabulous yet reasonably priced meal at a tavern called Konoba Atlantida. I wanted to experience a traditional Dalmatian meat dish so I followed the waitress’ recommendation and opted for Dalmatinska Pašticada, which is a stewed beef dish cooked in special sauce. It requires long and meticulous preparation. First, the meat is pierced and stuffed with garlic, cloves, carrot and bacon, then salted and marinated in vinegar overnight. The marinated beef is then roasted and cooked with roasted bacon, onions, parsley root, nutmeg, prunes, tomato paste, water and prošek up to five hours. After cooking, vegetables are blended in a sauce. I had it served with gnocchi and it was every bit as good as the waitress had suggested it would be. A meal to remember!
Just to top off a great day, the Sydney Swans beat the Melbourne Hawks. Why couldn’t they do that in last years grand final!
