Island of Dreams
Croatia Stage 4 – Wed 20th May 2015 – Drvenik to Jelsa, Hvar island (62 Km)
What more relaxing way to start the day than a 35 minute Jadrolinija Ferry ride across the Adriatic from Drvenik to Sućuraj on Hvar Island. Not a cloud in the sky and forecast is for another 28 degrees. As this was my first ferry ride in Croatia I allowed myself plenty of time to catch the first ferry of the day at 8 am. Now that I have mastered the process the next eight ferry crossings have no fears for me. The important thing to know is that only the car ferries take bicycles, not passenger ferries.
Arriving at Sućuraj I eagerly commenced the 52 Km ride to Jelsa, never having ridden on an island before. After an initial climb to about 400 metres, I rode along a plateau for the rest of the trip, before an exhilarating descent into Jelsa. The day was already getting hot, but there was a gentle breeze to fan my face. How fabulous it was just rolling along past olive groves, pine forests, fig trees, and grape vines. I had no shortage of energy today, probably because of the generous servings of pub food last night at Gornja Vala (Spaghetti Napolitane followed by a huge plate of Mixed Grill with Chips and Peas on the side). Fuelled up today I really steamed along, pistons pumping and sniffing the breeze, with the occasional glance at the azure blue Adriatic on my right.
If you like solitude, which I do, then Hvar Island is the place for you. Not a person in sight and the only sound, apart from a car about every half hour, was that of the birds singing in the forest. Maybe it won’t be so serene in a couple of weeks when summer and the hordes of tourists arrive. Most of the little villages along the route are ghost towns, with all the eating places closed. May is a perfect time of the year to ride in Croatia, before the roads get too busy and before it gets too hot.
Jelsa is one of those idyllic little towns that captivate you immediately, with its beautiful stone buildings and alley ways and beautiful harbour. After checking in at the delightful Villa Volga, I skyped Melveta then hopped on the bike again for a quick spin around town before finding a gelataria overlooking the water. Just as I was finishing a two-scoop gelati and two cappuccinos, about 20 lycra-clad cyclists wheeled around the corner and skidded to a halt at the caffe next door. It is Wednesday today so I immediately thought of my CCC Wednesday riding group in Sydney. Was I dreaming or had they come to join me in Croatia?
Arriving back at the Villa I fired up my little Acer laptop and settled down to upload my photos and pen a few words for my blog. Then it happened. My host had warned me that he would be drilling four holes in the wall off the unit next door to mount a TV, but he over-estimated the thickness of the wall and the next thing I knew I was looking at him in the eye through a hole the size of a 2 Kuna coin and so much rubble was falling on the floor of my room it was like a war zone. He was so apologetic and assured me that it was not a spy-hole, they are not into kinky games. There was a time when I would have seized on this incident as a negotiating opportunity, but I am too laid back at the moment and besides I felt sorry for him. I took my laptop out onto the delightful terrace and when I returned it twenty minutes, all the mess was cleaned up and the hole was plastered over.
The only problem facing me now is choosing a place to eat tonight from one of the many fabulous restaurants alongside the harbour. Decisions, decisions! Tomorrow is a short 30 Km ride across the island to Hvar Town, so I will be in no hurry to leave charming Jelsa in the morning.
Linda and I have very pleasant memories of that part of the world (including ferry trips) from our travels in 2003. I guess things won’t have changed much – at least I hope not!
Cheers, David
And to think I was worried for you that the shortage of English speakers would make for a lonely trip. I think there’s a career waiting for you as a novelist. Absolutely love your enthusiastic introductions to each new bit of Adriatic paradise.