Cornfields and Country Roads
France Stage 13 – Malestroit to Pontivy 69 Km (Fri 22 June 2018)
Weather: 10⁰C min – 20⁰C max, clear and sunny
“Keep going, no matter what.” ~ Unknown
Like yesterday I designed a route on country roads, threading through as many little towns as possible, rather than riding alongside the dirty and uninteresting canal (EV1 route). My reward again was a more scenic ride, while enjoying quiet, car-free cycling on excellent bitumen roads.
What amazed me today was the cornfields that extended almost from Malestroit to Pontivy. Surely the French can’t eat that much corn! Every now and then I came to a heavily-treed wood, which provided a nice change with dappled sunlight filtering through the dark green trees.
But for me the highlight is always the villages, most of which are just a collection of a dozen or so houses with no shops or cafes at all. Just as well I thought to buy my lunch at a boulangerie patisserie before I left Malestroit!
Josselin, the only sizable town I passed through, is the epitome of the word picturesque. It is like something out of a fairytale with its turreted chateau and its mass of cobbled streets filled with 16th-century half-timbered houses. But my experience there was not a good one. First the road entering the town was closed for roadwork, forcing me to take a wide detour up a hill so steep I had to dismount and walk my bike for about 300 m. Secondly I had been hanging out for a coffee for some time, but the cafe refused to serve me just coffee without ordering food. I hopped on my bike and rode out of town.
Pontivy, where I am staying tonight, has its share of half-timbered houses and has an interesting history. It was founded in the 7th century and was reshaped under Napoleon, who initiated construction of the Nantes à Brest canal. He realised the strategic position of the town, halfway between the ports of Nantes and Brest. For a while Pontivy became Napoleonville, the name remaining until the fall of Napoleon III (Napoleon Bonaparte’s nephew), when it reverted to Pontivy.
For the whole journey I was blessed with a perfect blue sky, but I was cursing the slight headwind. With all the undulations today the total ascent of 830 m was tough enough without any wind blowing in my face! I’ve earned my dinner tonight, so I am heading back into town now to find a good feed.
As they say never give up on a good thing. In spite of everything you don’t give up on a good ride.
Ride on as long as it is safe
The photos are beautiful Kevin – but it sounds like you have almost had enough of France and the French – I think Sharad feels the same as you ! Keep it up – you are doing great !
Thanks Ursula. France is a pretty country and the weather has been great for the last week. I had a marvellous tour.