Lorraine – Land of Prairies and Forests

Alsace (France) Stage 1 – Sat 3rd Sep 2016 – Metz to Nancy (70 Km)

Weather: 16⁰C min – 28⁰C max, fine, partly cloudy

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“Cycle tracks will abound in Utopia” ~ H.G. Wells

After a final breakfast on EuroSail’s barge Iris and bidding au revoir to my barge-ride mates, I disembarked and set off at about 8:30 am on my own solo ride from Metz to Basel in Switzerland, through the Lorraine & Alsace regions of France. Though often spoken of as if they were one, Alsace and Lorraine, neighbouring régions in France’s north-eastern corner, are linked by little more than the Vosges Mountains.

My exit arrangements were simple – just clip on my two pannier bags and head south along the bicycle path beside the Mosel. Unlike most of the others on the barge, I did not have to worry about early morning taxis or tricky train arrangements. The sky was grey but not threatening and shortly the sun broke through. I soon built up a head of steam, rolling along the smooth cycle path at a slightly higher tempo than the last week riding with a group.

Although officially only the third day of autumn, I noticed that the leaves were starting to turn and in some places were covering the path like a yellow carpet. Being so early in the morning there were few cyclists, but lots of fishermen seated on the bank of the Mosel. I saw no signs of fish being caught, but that did not seem to matter as they soaked in the serenity of the river reflecting the trees on the opposite bank. One fisherman was laying back in an outdoor chaise lounge, encased in a sleeping bag for warmth. Sturdy, covered, fishing platforms lined the bank in some places, indicating that fishing is a serious pastime in this area.

Boulangerie Patisseries in the small towns reminded me why it is so pleasant riding in France. My spirits were high, but sank a little when after about 10 Km of smooth, paved, pathway gave way to a gravel track that became rockier and more narrow the further I went. This was more like a bush walking track than a cycle path, with tree roots and wooden sleepers making my progress slower and slower. It was time for Plan “B” so I switched to my alternative route involving some sections of busy, secondary roads. Route 657 had a reasonable shoulder to ride on but the downside was that it was not a particularly attractive route, passing through nondescript countryside and a few tired little towns.

Stopping at a delicatessen/restaurant for a toasted baguette and café au lait, I sat at an outside table and attempted conversation with the French couple at the next table. It soon became apparent that their English vocabulary was as poor as my French. But when I pointed to the word Sydney on my riding jacket, the Frenchman said, ”Ah, Crocodile Dundee!”

For the next few Km I flip-flopped between busy roads and gravel paths, but then for the last 17 Km I struck sealed bike path that was so good I could be forgiven for thinking I was still in Germany. Rolling along at a good pace I reached my accommodation in Nancy at 2 pm, only to find the doors locked and a sign on the door saying that check-in is only between 5 pm and 8 pm. I should have read the fine print on Booking.com!

To pass the time I wheeled my bike around Nancy, looking for photo opportunities but found nothing much of interest. Nancy is a large, unpretentious, town that could be described as functional rather than pretty or ostentatious. I had read that Nancy is one of France’s most refined and attractive urban centres, famed for its neoclassical architecture and art nouveau museums. Whoever wrote that must have been referring to a part of town that I have not discovered yet. Ah I discovered it after talking to the receptionist … Stanislas Square is where it is all happening. Nancy is not a bad place after all!

With two more hours before I can check in, I found a bench in a quiet park overlooking the boats moored in the river and pulled out my laptop. Having finished my blog for the day I can catch up on some correspondence tonight and start preparing for my 86 Km ride to Niderville tomorrow.

It hasn’t been the most sensational day of riding I have ever had, but I can be thankful of reaching my destination safely and dry … and it is one town closer to charming and beautiful Alsace, which I am looking forward to with much anticipation.