A Perfect End to a Perfect Ride

Spain-Portugal Stage 11 – Sun 22nd May 2016 – Monchique to Santa Clara – Sabóia (30 Km)

Weather: 12⁰C min – 24⁰C max, fog then fine

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” Think of bicycles as rideable art that can just about save the world “ ~ Grant Petersen

Breakfast at the charming Bica Boa Inn was as good as it gets, starting with fresh strawberries swimming in yoghurt, freshly squeezed orange juice, cheese omelette, fresh bread rolls, home-made cake and English breakfast tea. Sitting at the next table was an Australian from Richmond near Sydney, who had just finished a two week yoga retreat in Spain and was now driving solo around Portugal. Like me he is an active retiree with several different interests. One initiative for seniors that sounded interesting was a group they have out at Richmond called Last Carriage. Up to 30 retirees start their train ride at Richmond, always in the last carriage, and pick up more people along the way. Each week they choose a different destination, sometimes involving light rail or ferries …all for the cost of $2.50 a day. Everyone has a story and I enjoyed listening to Brian’s.

Conscious of this being the last day of my 500 Km ride in Spain and Portugal I was in no hurry today, just wanting to savour every moment of this beautiful part of the world. Heading down the road at about 10 am there was still a heavy wet fog/cloud, which is not surprising when you are about 500m above sea level. It was after 11 am when the fog lifted and revealed another perfect sunny spring day.

What a nice way to finish my adventure, rolling along on the top of a mountain ridge, with lush green vegetation on both sides of the road, lots of gum trees, and more of those superb cork trees.

At the 20 Km point I entered the only town between Monchique and Sabóia … a tiny village called Nave Redonda where I stopped at the only café in town for a latte. At the next table was a couple from Northern Wales who came here on holidays ten years ago and ended up buying a house at an even smaller village up the road which has only 16 inhabitants (not nearly as populated as Nave Redonda which has 65). Then along came three young local cyclists, so I left the Welsh expats and joined them at their table. Being part of the cycling fraternity we immediately hit it off and ended up with photos together and discussing Australian cyclists like Richie Porte, Cadel Evans and Robbie McEwan. They looked like very professional riders (not like me) so I asked if they were training for the Tour de France, but they just laughed and said they were locals out for a 100 Km Sunday ride.

I didn’t  try to keep up with my new found friends when they mounted their flash bikes, but continued on the road towards Sabóia alone. The next 10 Km featured green, fertile, river flats with well-fed cattle grazing contentedly. How it gladdens the heart of a farmer’s son to see!

Arriving early at Sabóia I decided to ride 2 Km further on to check out the Santa Clara – Sabóia train station with the view to buying a ticket for me and my bike to Lisbon tomorrow. Alas, the station was closed, so all I can do is hope that the train stops at the station tomorrow morning and that I can pay for the tickets on the train. Whether the Comboios de Portugal’s Intercidades (IC) regional trains accept bicycles is up to the whim of the conductor, so wish me luck that I make it to Lisbon tomorrow.

My 500 Km cycling journey from Seville to Santa Clara is now complete and I must say has far exceeded my expectations – a truly amazing adventure. If I make it to Lisbon tomorrow I will spend three nights there before catching a train to Coimbra for two nights then to Porto for 4 nights before flying back to Gatwick. I trust you have enjoyed following my blog and invite you to join me when I fly to Milan on 30^th June for my ride through the lakes district of Italy, ending up in Venice.

Of all the delightful places I have stayed at in the last three weeks, the Casas de Sabóia B&B where I am staying tonight surpasses them all. I can understand why Booking.Com has given it a rating of 9.4 because, not only does it have fabulous facilities, but Verbena has done everything possible to make my stay enjoyable. Laid out on the table when I arrived was a selection of local cheeses, home-baked chocolate cake, home-made marmalade, two jars of cookies and a bowl of fresh fruit. I was told to help myself to anything in the fridge or pantry and to the coffee machine. On the table out on the back terrace there was even a bowl of delicious nispero fruit (called loquat in Australia). What a way to end a perfect day!

Verbena and her husband called around later to say they had phoned Comboios de Portugal, who told them that it is OK to buy the ticket on the train, but the trains that stop at Santa Clara – Sabóia will only take bikes that are dismantled and wrapped. But these kind hosts found some plastic for me to wrap the bike and will come around early in the morning to help me wrap the bike then drive me to the station 2 Km away. This is hospitality at its best!!!