Heading for the Hills

Spain-Portugal Stage 6 – Tue 17th May 2016 – Loulé to São Bartolomeu de Messines (50 Km)

Weather: 15⁰C min – 25⁰C max, fine but with streaky cloud

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” When my legs hurt, I say: “Shut up legs! Do what I tell you to do!” ~ Jens Voigt

My ride today from Loulé to São Bartolomeu de Messines was only 46 Km, but what it lacked in distance it made up for in elevation gain (781 m). Again I went cross country in some sections of the route, and was rewarded with lovely bushland with a wide variety of lovely flora and an abundance of magnificent wildflowers.

This was a more challenging day in the rolling hills to the north of Loulé, but worth the effort for the tremendous scenery. Passing through the hill-top village of Querença, I continued on through the delightful village of Alte famous for its dazzling white-painted houses. It was there that I stopped for a well-earned break and a wicked lunch consisting of a crème custard filled donut, an old-fashioned cornetto that I used to enjoy as a child, and a sugar-loaded Lipton’s lemon iced tea. You can eat this kind of food with a clear conscience when you have had a hard day’s work cycling up and down hills.

Solitude was what I experienced for much of the trip, so when I saw a crusty old man working in the fields I stopped for a chat. He seemed keen to talk too, but my Portuguese vocabulary is about six words and his English vocabulary seemed even less so we soon parted with a wave and a tchau (goodbye).

While struggling up a stiff hill not much further along I caught up with another rider who was puffing like a steam train (you can hear him in one of the videos if you listen carefully). And he didn’t even have fully-laden panier bags and an age handicap like me! We rode together until the top of the hill where our paths diverged.

Along the way there were several tiny little villages where the inhabitants seemed to be mostly ferocious dogs straining at their leashes to get a piece of me. In a couple of the videos you will hear them welcoming me into their village and you will notice my bicycle swerve violently at one stage when they frightened the life out of me.

About 10 Km past Alte I reached my destination of São Bartolomeu de Messines, a charming old unspoiled town with lots of character. The “guesthouse” where I am staying is actually more like a hotel, except there is a restaurant downstairs and not a pub. Although only €35 per night, including breakfast, it has a Booking.com rating of 9.0 and in my opinion this is understating how what good value it really is. I am writing this blog in the community TV room/lounge/kitchen just outside my room. There is actually a stove where I was able to boil some water to make a cup of English breakfast tea to go with the delicious fresh (still warm) Portuguese Tart that I bought at a patisserie just around the corner. Two Englishmen stopped for a chat and said they had left their wives back in UK while they came to the Algarve to hike some of the walking trails.

Food is what I like best in Portugal and it is unbelievably cheap. Last night I enjoyed a delicious large plate of grilled mackerel (5 whole fish on the plate) at a total cost of €6, followed up by a crème caramel for €2.50. I might have the same again tonight if it is on the menu.