Train Trip to Bologna, Italy
Bologna, Italy – Thursday 11 Jun 2015
Train trips in Europe can be fun once you know the ropes. First, if you are travelling with a bike it is important to know that only certain trains allow bikes, e.g. the slower regional trains such as Trenitalia Regionale usually do, but the fast, bullet-shaped, inter-city express trains like Veloce don’t. Secondly, you must buy a separate ticket for the bicycle (normally €3.5) and make sure you validate both tickets in the time-stamp machine located near the platform before departure. Thirdly, bicycles must go in the special area provided in the guard’s van, usually the front of the train but sometimes the last carriage.
Today’s four hour trip from Trieste to Bologna was for the most part a joy, almost as good as cycling (except you can’t stop and take photos). Leaving Trieste the train followed the scenic coast for a while, before heading inland showcasing the best of Italy: little villages, green fields, woodlands, market gardens, irrigated crops, corn fields, poplar trees, conifers, candle pines, orderly rows of trees (possibly cedar or birch), and lots of vineyards (on a commercial scale, not the small plantings used for family grappa making). Everything is so neat and ordered, with the crops, vines and tree plantations perfectly aligned in rows. What struck me most is how intensive the agriculture is, with not a square metre wasted, and everywhere the country-side is lush and green even though summer has arrived.
The train for the first part of the trip, from Trieste to Venestra Miestra, was almost empty until the carriage I had to myself filled up with Tunitians wearing T-shirts stamped “CSIT World Sport Games 2015”. Today was their rest day so they were sight-seeing and were obviously here to enjoy themselves, very chatty and happy people.
The second leg of the journey, from Venestra Miestra to Bologna was not so pleasant. For a start it was running late and kept stopping between stations and, even though it was a hot and humid day, there was no air-conditioning at all. But worst of all there was a young kid wearing his cap backwards playing loud rap music (which I dislike even more than heavy metal). Glad I didn’t complain though because he turned out alright, helping a couple off the train with their bikes and refusing to accept a tip. Never judge!
Bologna! What can I say? Bologna is the lively, historic capital of the Emilia-Romagna region, in northern Italy. It’s not just because it is reputed to be the food capital of Italy that I instantly fell in love with Bologna. It’s not just the Arcades of Bologna which cover 40 Km of the city. It’s not just the unbelievable architecture or the stunning marble pavements everywhere. It’s not just the medieval and Renaissance structures, such as City Hall, the Neptune Fountain and the Basilica of San Petronio. It’s not just the spectacular church of Santa Maria della Vita (Saint Mary of the Light). It’s not just the piazzas, ristorantes, trattorias, caffe bars and gelaterias. It’s not just the designer label shops such as Zara, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and McDonalds. Bologna has it all, the only negative being the beggars, tricksters and con artists that you find in all big Italian cities. But I have been caught before so I don’t carry any credit cards or my passport with me, just a fake wallet with a few Euros and a couple expired credit cards. When I checked in I asked if my bicicletta would be safe tied up on the street. She replied “no this is Bologna” so I paid the 5 Euro a day to put it in the hotel car park.
I am not paid to make decisions any more, but I have a big decision facing me tonight. Where do I eat? One thing for sure, wherever it is I will be trying their Bolognese sauce.
Buona notte signors and signoras!
